You Mad at Polo for Making Us Look Elite?”: On Ralph Lauren, Black Dandyism, and the War Over Our Image
Ralph Lauren just dropped its “Oak Bluffs” capsule — a rich, thoughtful tribute to Black heritage, Morehouse and Spelman pride, and the elegant Black vacation culture of Martha’s Vineyard. But instead of celebrating the moment, a few loud voices on the internet had a meltdown.
Why?
Because they’d rather see Black folks stuck in the trenches — not sipping champagne in linen suits.
July 28th. Written by Ryan Packer | Editor in Chief for PlannMagazinePolo Was Never Just About the Hood
There’s no denying Polo has deep roots in hip-hop culture. The Chief Keef era made that crystal clear — sagging True Religion jeans, Polo tees, and belt buckles turned into full-on status symbols. It was raw, it was loud, it was ours.
But Polo’s connection to Black culture predates that era.
Before the streetwear takeover, there was Black dandyism — sharp tailoring, confidence, sophistication. In cities like D.C., especially in Chocolate City’s heyday, Black style was deeply tied to pride and upward mobility. Polo was never about glorifying poverty — it was about signaling success.
So when Ralph Lauren leans into that side of the story, they’re not erasing anything. They’re expanding it.
This Isn’t a Token Campaign — It’s Cultural Storytelling Done Right
Let’s be clear: this collection isn’t performative. It’s not a trendy DEI rollout. It’s rooted in intention and crafted by someone who understands the culture from the inside.
James M. Jeter, a Morehouse graduate and creative director at Ralph Lauren, is the visionary behind the Oak Bluffs campaign. This isn’t about optics — it’s about legacy. And the care shows in every detail: from the HBCU emblems to the styling that nods to generational pride.
Ralph Lauren is Americana. And the Black American experience? It’s just as central to that story.
Let’s Talk About Representation — the Full Spectrum
For decades, mainstream fashion and media often showed Black men in a single light — struggling, surviving, or stuck in pain. Rarely were we seen lounging on a sailboat, reading Baldwin on a porch in Martha’s Vineyard, or walking confidently in a three-piece suit with a Spelman grad on our arm.
We’ve said we wanted better representation. This is what that looks like.
It’s not about forgetting where we came from — it’s about finally showing where we can go.
Ralph Lauren’s Oak Bluffs collection is more than clothes. It’s a reframing of the narrative. One that says Black culture is multifaceted, historic, and yes — elite.
There’s room for every version of our story.
But let’s not tear down the ones that show us in a new, aspirational light.
Because we’ve been asking for this. And now that it’s here — let’s receive it with the pride it deserves.